Leaving the EEC: Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik 2008

Dubrovnik is at first glance quite breathtaking. Despite the ravages of the 1991-5 war and the earlier onslaught of the 1667 earthquake, it has been preserved with an integrity that is not expected in this modern world. Its marble paved streets, the consistency of its medieval architecture with both Gothic and Renaissance elements prevailing make it special. As well commercial activities are contained within the walls of the buildings so that what is most noticeable are the buildings themselves, not the fact that it is a hairdresser’s, a butcher’s etc. How successful this is from the point of view of the marketer I am not sure, but for the visitor, it makes a pleasant change from most European towns of character which often bear more resemblance to a market place than to their historical origins. As Croatia’s tourist industry grows, I hope that it is not subsumed under the blanket of commercial promotion.

Since the war, apparently, it has aimed at high market tourism – it certainly isn’t cheap for the tourist and if the locals live there on an average salary of 500-700 euros per month, their lifestyles must be fairly simple. We stayed in 2 hotels, both in the La Pad area of Dubrovnik; there are lots of hotels and restaurants there and the beach, and astoundingly blue and clean water made it a great place for walks to balance the food (mainly seafood) we ate in restaurants.

We went into Dubrovnik three times, either walking or by taxi (although the bus was a cheap option too) and on three tours. In the country to the south (Montenegro), we visited its two walled cities of Budva (very crowded because Madonna had been performing there the night before) and Kotor. We also took a boat trip to three of the islands in the Elaphite archipelago, Sipan, Kolocep and Lopud and another bus/ferry combination to Korcula another walled town. So we got to see the scenery of the region and by the end of the trip, the beautiful preserved old towns, were becoming the norm. But we met some nice people on the trips and that sometimes had a greater influence on whether we enjoyed the day or the places themselves.

When you travel with a guided tour, it seems to me that you lose the spirit of independent travel and discovery. Forging links (albeit temporary ones) with the people you meet is an alternative benefit Tours are certainly efficient ways to see unknown parts of the world and language difficulties are minimised. But the excitement of overcoming barriers, language or otherwise, abates.

I guess it depends on individual preferences.

On to London, Madrid and then the grand tour to end all grand tours. Watch this space.